🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.